Main - Vip Masters

Appliance Repair

Fix your home appliance problem

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As the main service for repairing home appliances, we recommend that in the same day, the service on the home on all major devices, embracing, but not limited to:

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Cooktop

repair price from $165

As primary home appliance repair service, we recommend that on that same day, on-home service on all leading devices, covering, but not limited to:

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Garbage Disposal

repair price from $165

When your garbage chute passes, gets clogged, or simply does not work, simply order the Internet for expert repair and destruction of garbage chute problems. We will fix this important part of your home.

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Range / Stove

repair price from $165

Not working? Doesn't bake evenly? Fan won't turn off? Light is out? Not heating? Not self-cleaning? Won't turn on? Burners spark all the time? Burner won't light? Book online for repair your Range.

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Refrigerator

repair price from $165

We serve all brands and models. We Repair Integrated Freezers, French Door Freezers Top / Bottom Refrigerators And Freezers. We repair ice generators and wine cellars under the counter.

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Stand Alone Freezer

repair price from $165

Freezers allow us to waste less food and save money. But what happens when it stops working? If you need freezer repair service fast, just Book online for expert repair.

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Microwave and Oven

repair price from $165

The microwave doesn't heat up? Is there no electricity in your microwave? Microwave touch sidewalk won't do anything? Did the light burn out in your microwave? Does your microwave sparkle? Book online!

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Washer & Dryer

repair price from $165

If your washing machine has decided to quit, and you need it repaired as quickly and efficiently as possible? Book online and save your washer.

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Water Heater

repair price from $165

Do not heat or does not contain a pilot light? Making noise? Is the water very hot or very cold? Order online repair of your water heater.

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Dishwasher

repair price from $165

Keeping Dishwasher in good working condition is essential to the success of your home, as well as the health, safety and happiness of your family.

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All major appliances

repair price from $165

When you need expert appliance repair service help, the team of Vip-Masters.com is the place to turn. Just Book online!

Cost Labor

The prices without parts, discounts and coupons

*If you decide to fix with us

Service Call Fee

$0

If you book online!

Service Call Fee

$69

If you book by phone

Service Call Fee

$79

If you will decide to fix

Minimum Labor Fee

$165

Great Reasons To
Hire Vip-Masters.com

1

Here When You Need Us

Our technicians are available on your schedule!

2

Quality Work, Every Time

Our attention to detail ensures quality, safe work every time!

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Upfront Pricing

Before we start any work, we explain what we're going to do.

Our works

Examples of work that our team does every day

Feedback from our customers

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Marcia Johnson

Thanks to the Vip-Masters.com team for their quick and professional work. All the work from start to finish was done on time. I already ordered a stove repair six months ago for my mom. This time I got a discount as a regular customer. Only good memories of their Vip-Masters.com technique!

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Andrew Carstensen

What is the most Vip-Masters.com a team of technicians changed our equipment in our cafe at the weekend. Everything was created quite quickly, all the repair lines were clearly discussed in advance and calculated. It was good to get the equipment repaired a day before it was planned.

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Kira and Michael Mills

We would like to say a huge thank you to all the children from Vip-Masters.com team for the chance to fix our ramshackle freezer and microwave oven for a meaningful cost. We ordered the Internet repair and we liked the whole process of cooperation with the company Vip-Masters.com we strongly advise you to: Vip-Masters.com

How do we work?

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Book online or Call us

Make a request online or call us, describe your problem and the same day our master comes to you.

Diagnosis

Our professional will drive up to you at the appointed time and on the specified day. He will make a diagnosis, tell you about the problem and offer a conclusion.

Repair

If you decide that we will fix the problem, we will specify the cost of our work, the time frame and start working.

Payment

You accept, approve and pay for work. We accept payments for our work by card, check or cash. You can also pay online.

Book online and get $10 off

Schedule the date & time window you would like for your
service!

Tips and FAQ

However, before you call us, there are a number of simple steps that you can do in order to make sure that there really is a problem that needs to be corrected. To begin with, as in any other device, make sure that the electronic merge is strong, and make sure that the fuse is not blown or the self-acting switch is not triggered.

Vip-Masters.com will resume the problem with your technique.
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A Service Call fee is a bill for the expense associated with the time and travel to diagnose, inspect and provide expert recommendations for a home’s heating or air conditioning system by a certified professional technician.

Most companies who provide home services charge a flat rate called a «diagnostic fee» or «service fee» before they start the actual repair. This fee can be frustrating for some customers because they feel that the technician hasn’t actually done any work towards the repair – they’ve simply diagnosed the problem. These customers believe that the diagnostic fee is just a way for the service company to make more money – but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Here’s what you should know about diagnostic fees:

A DIAGNOSIS HAS HIDDEN COSTS

In actuality, most home service companies don’t make any money off the initial service call and diagnosis. In fact, sometimes the costs of doing business are actually much higher than the diagnostic fee. You may be wondering, «What costs? They haven’t done anything!» There are actually several expenses to the service company for each call they make – even if no work is actually done. These costs are often «hidden» from the customer.

TIME

Each service technician is paid by the company for their time. Though it may only take five or 10 minutes to diagnosis your problem, the technician likely spent a good deal of time on your call before they arrived at your home. It takes time for them to grab tools and materials, dispatch, drive to your home, log information about your visit and then drive back to the company. On average, a typical diagnostic call (including time spent before and after the actual diagnosis) can take upwards of an hour or more of the technician’s time. Please also remember that, though the technician may only spend 10 minutes diagnosing a problem at your home, they can easily spend an hour or more diagnosing more complicated problems at other homes, on top of the time spent driving and logging information about the call. The diagnostic fee is a flat rate, so the company doesn’t charge more when the diagnosis takes longer than normal.

VEHICLE EXPENSES

The vehicles used by the company also have expenses. These expenses are considered part of the cost of service calls because the vehicles are necessary to carry tools and other items for each technician. Vehicle expenses include things like fuel, maintenance and repairs on the vehicles, lease or loan payments, insurance and vehicle depreciation (wear and tear). These expenses may not seem like much per call, but they quickly add up, and the company must have income to cover the expenses.

DIAGNOSING IS A SKILL

Aside from the costs associated with a diagnostic service visit, companies also charge a fee because the diagnosis itself requires skill. It may take only 10 or 15 minutes for a trained technician to diagnosis the problem, but that’s simply because they have the skills necessary to troubleshoot and recognize the issue. Oftentimes, homeowners schedule a service visit because they lack these skills and need assistance. In short, a diagnosis is a service, just like any other service.
While it may be frustrating to pay a service fee before a problem is actually fixed, it’s a necessary part of the home services industry. You’ll also find that diagnostic fees are common in other industries, such as IT and computer repair, automotive repair, etc. It’s a necessary part of doing business that’s meant to cover the company’s time, labor and overhead expenses. Even on the quickest service calls, the fee barely covers these expenses; when a diagnosis takes longer than average, the expenses are often far greater than the actual fee charged.

Vip-Masters.com will restore a problem with your appliances.
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If you are comparing having your existing machine repaired or replacing it with a machine that is comparable in price with what you paid for your machine 10 or so years ago, you will not be making a valid comparison. The equipment is neither similar in quality nor durability for the same price. If you were to merely replace your existing household appliance with one that costs about what you paid a decade ago, you’ll be repairing or junking the new machine every three to four years. You’ll either have to pay more up front for a new, high-quality machine that will give you another 10 years of trouble-free operation or you pay less up front for a low-end machine and then pay-as-you-go for repairs.

Vip-Masters.com will restore a problem with your appliances.
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We Service all Brands & Models. We Repair Built-In Refrigerators, French Door Refrigerators, Top/Bottom Refrigerators. We Repair Under Counter Ice Makers and Wine Cellars. Call us today for Service! We have Factory Trained Techs & are fully Insured. We will have your Refrigerator or Ice maker running like it should ASAP! We provide warranty on all our work!

Problems:

Refrigerator not cooling

– The condenser fan motor is faulty.
– The evaporator fan motor is faulty.
– The start relay is faulty.
– Condenser coils are very dirty.
– The temperature control thermostat is faulty.
– Start capacitor is defective.
– The thermistor is faulty.
– The temperature control board is defective.
– The compressor is faulty.
– The main control board is defective.

Refrigerator defrost drain clogged

– Defrosting can be blocked by food residues or frozen.
– Drain heater defective.

Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm

– The defrosting heater unit is defective.
– The evaporator fan motor is faulty.
– The damper control unit is defective.
– The thermistor is faulty.
– The temperature control board is defective.
– The defrost control panel is defective.
– The defrost timer is defective.
– Defrost thermostat defective.

Refrigerator water dispenser not working

– Defective Dispenser Control Boards.
– Defective Dispenser Switch.
– The Door Switch is faulty.

Refrigerator ice maker not working

– Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C).
– The water inlet valve is faulty.
– The ice machine unit is defective.
– Defective ice maker module.
– Low water pressure from the house.
– The door switch is faulty.
– The ice level control board is defective.
– The water filter is clogged.
– Defective ice mold thermostat
– Ice-maker The switch is defective.

Refrigerator ice dispenser not working

– The dispenser control panel is defective.
– The dispenser switch is faulty.
– The door switch is faulty.
– The main control board is defective.

Refrigerator not defrosting

– The defrost control panel is defective.
– The defrost timer is defective.
– Defective Heater Assembly defective.
– Defrost Defective Thermostat.
– The fuse has blown or defective sensor defective.
– The main control board is defective.

Refrigerator is noisy or loud

– The fan blade jammed with a foreign object and it is broken.
– The evaporator fan motor is faulty.
– The condenser fan motor is faulty.
– The compressor is worn out.
– The water inlet valve is clogged or faulty.

Refrigerator leaking water

– The defrost drain is frozen or clogged.
– The water tank is leaking.
– The water inlet valve is broken.
– The water filter housing is not sealed.
– The drain pan is cracked.
– The water filter is not installed correctly.

Refrigerator freezing food

– The temperature control thermostat is defective.
– The thermistor is faulty.
– The temperature control panel is defective.
– The main control board is defective.
– The damper control unit is defective.

Refrigerator ice and water dispenser not working

– The dispenser control panel is defective.
– The dispenser switch is faulty.
– The wire of the dispenser is damaged.
– Burned or non-proper engine.
– The solenoid of the dispenser is defective.
– The auger is broken or disconnected from the auger motor.
– The engine of the dispenser door is faulty.

Refrigerator ice maker overflowing

– The inlet valve for water is faulty.
– Low Water Pressure from House Suppli.
– Defective Ice Maker Assemblies.

Refrigerator light not working

– A light bulb burned or it is missing.
– The lighting switch is defective.
– The door switch is faulty.
– The light connector is defective.
– Defective Light Boord.

Refrigerator runs constantly

– Condenser coils of the refrigerator are heavily soiled.
– Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C).
– Defective heater defrost.
– Defrost thermostat defective.
– The refrigerator door is not fully closed or the door gasket is damaged.
– Evaporator Fan Motor defective.
– The defrost control panel is defective.
– The defrost timer is defective.
– The control board is defective.
– Condenser fan motor is faulty.

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Water Heater not heating

– The thermocouple is defective.
– The heating element is defective.
– The pilot is sore with accumulated carbon deposits. It must be cleaned or replaced.
– The gas valve or thermostat is faulty.
– Inductor motor defective.
– The ignition module is defective.
– The pressure sensor is defective.
– The thermostat is faulty.
– Defective igniter.

Water Heater not keeping pilot light

– Defective igniter.
– The pressure sensor is defective.
– The pilot is injured or defective.
– The spark electrode is defective.

Water Heater making noise

– In any, even new and serviceable storage water heater, water is buzzing due to the process of the convention. The heating element, installed at the bottom of the tank, heats the water. It forms bubbles that rise upward and clap when they enter the upper, colder layers. The same happens when the kettle is boiling. This process is natural, it is impossible to fight against it.
– A thick layer of scale has formed on the heater. At the same time salt deposits are heated first, and water is already heated from them. At the same time, part of the liquid falls under the scale layer, and whistles when it boils and exits.
– Too much pressure in the water supply. At the same time, pipes can make noise. This increases the load on the water heater and reduces the life of the heater. It is necessary to install a pressure reducer, which will reduce it if necessary.
– The check valve is noisy. It is necessary that the water from the boiler does not go back to the water supply. But over time, the valve wears out, becomes covered with scum and begins to flow a little, which is accompanied by a buzz. You need to replace it with a new one or clean it.
– Whistle bypass valve. When heated, the water expands. To prevent tank rupture, each water heater has a bypass valve, which, under excessive pressure, discharges water into the sewer, which is sometimes accompanied by a whistle. It must be replaced.
– The raised noise can be, if the boiler air, that is in it together with water air gets. Usually this is of a short duration and takes place when the water supply is restored. The same effect occurs if a large amount of oxygen is initially dissolved in water.

Water Heater water too hot

If the water in the water heater is too hot, the thermostat, the gas valve or the heating element is most likely faulty.

Water Heater water too cold

– The electric heating element is defective.
– On the gas heater, check the indicator light to see if it is on.
– The water heater thermostat is faulty.

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Dishwasher is making loud noise

This is usually caused by residual food or even glass shards that have fallen into the pump impeller or sprinklers. This is caused by worn bearings in the pump or electric motor.

Dishwasher won’t drain

– The drain hose is bent in some place, so the water does not physically leave the car.
– Clogged coarse filter.
– The pump is faulty.
– The pressure switch is faulty.
– The control board has broken

Dishwasher vibrating or shaking

– Failure of the drain pump;
– Failure of impeller bearings or working pumping equipment, which ensures the circulation of water in the process of washing dishes;
– Incorrect placement of dishes or presence of foreign objects in the chamber;
– Incorrect installation, due to which the device vibrates and rumbles.

Dishwasher fills slowly

– Most often, the reason lies in the weak pressure of water from the aqueduct. It is necessary to wait, when the head will be optimal for the qualitative work of the dishwasher.

Dishwasher leaking water

Most Frequent Causes for Dishwasher leaking:

The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the dishwasher. If the water inlet valve is stuck open, the dishwasher will continue to fill with water until the dishwasher leaks or overflows. If the water inlet valve is at fault, replace it. Water inlet valves are not repairable—if the valve is defective, you must replace it.

If the wash arm is cracked, it can allow a jet of water to spray toward the door seal, causing a leak. Remove the wash arm and inspect it for cracks. If the wash arm is cracked, replace it. Do not attempt to seal the crack with glue—the glue will break down in the dishwasher. If the wash arm is intact, make sure the screws in the wash arm support are tight. If the wash arm support is loose, water can spray out between the wash arm support and the lower pump housing, causing waves. These waves can cause water to leak out of the bottom of the door.

If the wash arm is cracked, it can force water to spray directly toward the lower part of the dishwasher door. The water can then be forced under the door and onto the floor, causing a leak. Remove the wash arm and inspect it for cracks. If the wash arm is cracked, replace it. Do not attempt to seal the crack with glue—the glue will break down in the dishwasher. If the wash arm is intact, make sure the screws in the wash arm support are tight. If the wash arm support is loose, water can spray out between the wash arm support and the lower pump housing, causing waves. These waves can cause water to leak out of the bottom of the door.

If the upper wash arm is cracked, it can force water to spray directly toward the dishwasher door seal, causing a leak. Remove the wash arm and inspect it for cracks. If the wash arm is cracked, replace it. Do not attempt to seal the crack with glue—the glue will break down in the dishwasher. If the wash arm is intact, make sure the screws in the wash arm support are tight. If the wash arm support is loose, water can spray out between the wash arm support and the lower pump housing, causing waves. These waves can cause water to leak out of the bottom of the door.

Look for tears, gaps or cuts in the seal that could cause a dishwasher door leak. To determine if the door seal is making good contact, try closing the dishwasher door on a dollar bill all the way around the door. If the dollar bill does not stick, there is a gap in the seal. If the door seal has any gaps or leaks, replace it. If the door seal is working properly but the dishwasher is still leaking, check the door hinges. If the hinges are bent, the door will not close properly, creating a gap between the door seal and the dishwasher. If the hinges are bent, replace them.

Look for tears, gaps or cuts in the gasket that could cause a dishwasher door leak. To determine if the door gasket is making good contact, try closing the dishwasher door on a dollar bill all the way around the door. If the dollar bill does not stick, there is a gap in the gasket. If the door gasket has any gaps or leaks, replace it. If the door gasket is working properly but the dishwasher is still leaking, check the door hinges. If the hinges are bent, the door will not close properly, creating a gap between the door gasket and the dishwasher. If the hinges are bent, replace them.

Dishwasher won’t start

– Is there a voltage in the network, if there is one, then the indication of the control panel should be lit.
– The control board has broken. Water may have fallen on the control board, resulting in condensation or other causes.

Dishwasher won’t spin or agitate

– Broken drive belt;
– The drive motor is faulty;
– Washer nozzles hammered;
– The water flow distributor is faulty.

Dishwasher overflowing

– The inlet water valve may be faulty, it does not turn off after sufficient water has accumulated in the machine, then the dishwasher will overflow. In this case, the water supply valve must be replaced.
– The float switch is defective, which prevents the dishwasher from overflowing. If the float switch is defective, it must be replaced.

Dishwasher door or lid won’t lock

– The door latch is defective. Make a visual osmtor, if the latch is damaged, then it must be replaced with a new one.
– The door fastener is broken. If the door strike is broken, then replace it.
– The control board is defective. If the control card is still faulty, its replacement is also necessary.

Dishwasher stops mid cycle

– If the dishwasher stops during washing, this may indicate the presence of any malfunctions in the machine. Most often, stops are associated with clogs in the drain system.
– Intermittent water supply during the washing cycle. In such cases, the dishwasher reaches a cycle of draining or flooding the water and can not continue because of blockages in the drainage system. Or there is no water supply.
– If the dishwasher simply stops and the display shows the remaining time, and after the door is closed, the washing process is restarted – this may indicate: incorrect installation (not tight closing of the door lock), faulty door lock.
– In some cases, the program does not even begin, and in some cases does not reach the stake. You can identify the problem in this case by entering the service mode and determining the error code, or by running a diagnostic complex.

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Oven repair Tips

If your element is not heating up and nothing else on the oven, cooktop, or range is working then check the fuse or circuit breaker and test for power. If the power is on and the unit is getting power and you have standard surface burner element, test the surface burner and the burner switch. If you oven temperature doesn’t appear to be correct, make sure the controls are set properly and that the oven selector switch is set right and that the temperature switch is set to the desired temperature. Then test for voltage, there may be a problem with the oven thermostat or oven elements. And remember that your working with 220 volts, use extreme caution!

Oven broiler not working

– The heating element is defective. If during work it does not glow red or does not burn, then in this case it is working.
– The electrode of the gas ignition electrodes is faulty.
– The thermostat is defective, because of what the elemnt of the broiler does not heat up. In this case, its replacement is required.
– Probably oxidized or burned wires that feed the frying element or burner ignitor.

Oven doesn’t bake evenly

– One or several heating elements should be damaged if the dishes are cooked unevenly, one side is baked at maximum temperature and the other remains practically untouched. In order to check the assumption it is necessary to turn on the oven and after a while hand wrapped in a towel, touch the TENs. If one of them is cold, then you will have to replace it with a new one.
– It happens that the heating elements are normal, the temperature is set correctly, but the dishes still do not want to bake evenly. In this case, the thermostat most likely broke.

Oven door repair

After some time of operation, the element of closing the door begins to seize, it is not enough to close tightly. If the door closes badly, it must be repaired.

Oven fan won’t turn off

– If after running the program, the oven fan continues to turn, the thermostat may be faulty.
– The control board is defective.

Oven light is out

– The oven lighting lamp burnt out.
– The lamp socket is defective.

Oven not heating

– The oven power cord is damaged.
– Faulty switch or fuse. If there has recently been a power failure or a power outage, it is possible that the switch or fuse of the electric oven has been damaged and must be replaced.
– The reason for the unsatisfactory operation of the gas oven may be insufficient supply of gas. Check that the gas valve on the pipe is fully open.
– If the power cord, switch, fuse is OK, and with the gas supply all right – try using the reset function of control and other oven programs.
– Check if the cooking mode programs are used correctly. Perhaps you have the «delayed start» mode (heating delay), then the oven will not heat up until a certain time.
– If the problem is in the electric oven, it may be necessary to replace the heating element, igniter, thermostat, selector switch, safety valve or wiring.

Oven not self-cleaning

– The oven thermostat is faulty. The oven thermostat supplies voltage to the heating circuit and regulates the temperature of the oven during the self-cleaning cycle. The thermostat can work correctly for baking and frying, but not for cleaning.
– The control board is defective.
– The thermal fuse is defective. Then a safety feature that protects the oven from overheating.

Oven temperature not accurate

– The oven thermostat is not adjusted or set incorrectly.
– On electrical ranges, one of the heating elements may be defective. Make sure they are lit or heated during the cycle.

Oven won’t turn off

– The control board is defective if the oven continues to heat after it is turned off;
– The temperature control thermostat is faulty;
– If the heating element burns, it can become sealed inside the oven. If the heating element is closed, the oven will not be turned off.

Oven won’t turn on

– Gas igniter is defective.
– If the heating element is burned, it will be visibly damaged, then its replacement is necessary.
– If the thermal fuse has tripped, the oven will overheat and it will not be able to turn on.
– Damaged wires that feed the wind element or igniter.

Range burners spark all the time

– The spark ignitor is defective.
– The module is defective.

Range surface element won’t turn off

– The surface element switch is defective.
– After long use of the electric plate, the coil of the surface element burns out.

Stove burner won’t light

– The spark module is defective, in this case a weak spark appears on the burner or the torch will flash with interruptions and the flame does not ignite.
– The spark electrode and spark wire may also be defective.

Stove heating element not working

— If the burner plate does not heat up, then the problem is most likely in the burner connector, or in the switch.
— It may also be that burnt or oxidized contacts in the burner seat, then it will not be able to supply the burner coil.

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Range burners spark all the time

– The spark ignitor is defective.
– The module is defective.

Range surface element won’t turn off

– The surface element switch is defective.
– After long use of the electric plate, the coil of the surface element burns out.

Stove burner won’t light

– The spark module is defective, in this case a weak spark appears on the burner or the torch will flash with interruptions and the flame does not ignite.
– The spark electrode and spark wire may also be defective.

Stove heating element not working

— If the burner plate does not heat up, then the problem is most likely in the burner connector, or in the switch.
— It may also be that burnt or oxidized contacts in the burner seat, then it will not be able to supply the burner coil.

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Microwave won’t heat? Is there no power to your microwave? Microwave oven door won’t open? Microwave touch pad won’t do anything? Light burned out in your microwave? Does your microwave spark?

Microwave buttons not working

– The touch panel is defective, this happens over time, that is, the membrane is damaged.
– The control panel is defective.

Microwave display not working

If your display is partially out, the display panel is broken. If the display does not work at all, then either the main control board or the display board has broken, then they need to be replaced.

Microwave door won’t open

If the microwave door does not open, the door opening mechanism has failed. To find the place of breakdown, it is best to give the microwave oven to a service center. We do not advise you to try to open the door with effort. You can damage both the door itself and cause additional damage to the mechanism of its opening.

Microwave exhaust fan not working

If the fan of the microwave oven does not work, then you may have a faulty fan motor, try removing the fan motor. Run a multimeter to check the resistance of the windings of the fan motor of the microwave oven, if it is defective, replace it.

Microwave is loud or noisy

Rotary table.
The small power of the electric motor of constant rotation of the turntable in the microwave oven is not uncommon for these motors, since they wear out with age.
Sometimes the breakdown will be unexpected and the turntable will stop. But sometimes the engine starts to make strange noises, which indicate the impending trouble.

Failure of the exhaust fan.
Like the rotary table, the exhaust fan is powered by a small motor that runs constantly. Sometimes the fan motor and the table are common. The failure of the electric motor of the fan often occurs suddenly, and sometimes they break down gradually, making some strange and unusual sounds in the process of work.

Malfunction of mixer motor.
The mixer in your microwave oven is a small metal blade that continuously rotates, while the oven is running. The purpose of the mixer is to make sure that the microwave energy in the oven is evenly distributed. This helps to prevent uneven cooking or heating food.
As with the exhaust fan and the turntable, the mixer motor breaks down gradually, producing unusual sounds during operation. The impending breakdown of the mixer motor can often be accompanied by a strange grinding noise.

Problems with the magnetron.
Magnetron can be considered the heart of a microwave oven. It generates microwave radiation, which prepares food. This happens by converting electricity into microwave energy of the appropriate frequency.
A good magnetron works almost silently. But as soon as the end of their working life comes to an end, they start to make strange sounds. The noise of a defective magnetron can range from a rather shrill howling to growling or rumbling.
You should know that if the furnace magnetron has already begun to emit these noises, then this is not dangerous. But it is a sure sign of an impending breakdown. Call the wizard as soon as you start to notice these sounds, and he will help you avoid the failure of the microwave oven at an inconvenient time.

Microwave is sparking or arcing

This problem begins to manifest itself due to untimely care of the microwave, traces of fat and food accumulate on the walls of the microwave and it starts to spark, all microwaves have a mica plate that is a dielectric, that is, a material through which any radio waves easily pass. For the mica is installed magnetron, with the help of which our food is heated. As a rule, when the microwave begins to spark, then the mica and the magnetron cup are burnt, but there are also cases when the magnetron itself breaks down, so if your microwave sparkled, do not turn it on any more, and replace the mica and Check the magnetron cap.

The paint on the inside of the microwave oven can be chamfered. If the paint is beveled, the inner metal will be opened, resulting in a microwave sparking or blowing. Check the inside of the microwave oven in any places where the paint has broken away. If there are damaged spots, touch them with the microwave oven’s paint.

Microwave light bulb not working

Most microwave ovens have internal lighting that turns on when they are warmed up or when the door is opened. This light is not necessary for microwave operation, but it is much more convenient to use with it. If the bulb in the microwave is burnt out, you can carefully disassemble the microwire and replace the bulb or consult technicians from Appliance1.US.

Microwave not heating

Every thing, be it an electrical appliance or some kind of mechanism, has its expiry date and resource of work. In our world there is nothing eternal and the magnetron is no exception. The resource of operation of the magnetron directly depends on the mode of its operation. The more intensive the microwave oven, the less the magnetron will serve. In the course of long operation, the magnetron «ages and wears out», resulting in such a malfunction as the loss of cathode emission, i.e. The cathode region is depleted with time, and it loses its ability to emit electrons into the working region, which causes the magnetron to stop working. The second malfunction that can occur during long operation is a break in the filament. In this case, you can give an example of an ordinary incandescent lamp, no matter how much it would not shine to you, sooner or later, it will still burn out. As a result of the breakage of the filament, approximately the same situation arises as in the first case. The cathode is not heated, hence – there is no emission. These two malfunctions are often encountered in practice, and if we theorize theoretically, we can assume that a third malfunction occurs as a result of a prolonged operation of the furnace – this is a failure of the magnetic system of the magnetron. In the event of a malfunctioning of the magnetic system, the electrons will simply fly from the cathode to the anode, they will not «circulate» along the anode surface and the microwave oscillations in the resonators will not arise. In practice, it was in magnetrons that I did not see this, but it was found in other devices containing permanent magnets. From time or under the influence of external factors, a permanent magnet can lose its properties (demagnetize).
Warning: A microwave oven can store a deadly amount of electricity (up to 5000 volts) in its high-voltage capacitor even after the microwave oven is disconnected from the mains. It is therefore extremely important to replace the electronic components in the microwave oven, only a licensed technical can lock them).

Another very common malfunction of the magnetron is the breakdown of the pass-through capacitors of the magnetron filter. Check it out, the same simple, by the same tester. In the resistance measurement mode, you need to touch the probes of the device with one of the power terminals of the magnetron and its housing. If the device shows «infinity» – the capacitors are in good order (bottom picture). If the device shows any resistance, then one of the capacitors is broken or in a leak. If there are other serviceable capacitors, they can simply be replaced, if not, then it is better to replace the magnetron with a known good.

Microwave not working

Door switch
There are many reasons why your microwave oven does not turn on, one of which can be a faulty door switch. A door switch, known as a lock switch, signals to other microwave components to start the power supply when the door is closed and stop when the door is opened. For this reason, everything else can appear in working order, but the microwave will not start to heat up. To access the door switch or the lock switch, turn off the microwave oven and remove the cabinet. The switches have terminals designated C for general and NO for normally open. Check each terminal with a multimeter to ensure continuity. If at the time there is, then it means that the switch is working. If there is no circuit, replace the switch. You can also take this opportunity to make sure that the door hooks work correctly.

Ceramic fuse
If your microwave oven does not start and the display is empty and does not respond, the problem may be related to the ceramic fuse. This part protects other microwave components from power fluctuations and leads to a total loss of power when it fails, that is, your microwave oven will not work. To access the ceramic fuse located inside the cabinet next to the power cord, first turn off the microwave oven. Use a multimeter to check the integrity of the fuse. If you are aware of the cause of a fuse failure, such as opening or closing a microwave door, you can also check the door switch to make sure it works. If you do not know the cause of the fuse failure, you can test other microwave parts, such as a magnetron, a high voltage diode, a capacitor and a transformer.

Thermal fuse or cut-out
The problem with a thermal fuse or cutout can be the reason that your microwave oven does not turn on. Thermoswitches, also known as thermal fuses, help to keep the furnace from overheating. When the heat outputs do not work, your microwave oven does not turn on as a precaution so that it does not heat up. To access the thermal switches, first turn off the microwave oven, and then remove the cabinet. After you find the thermal fuse, disconnect its wires from the terminals. Use the multimeter to check for continuity and replace the thermal cutouts if there is no continuity. Take this opportunity to also check if the cooling fan is working, or to cause the microwave to overheat, shutting off the airflow.

Door Latch
Your microwave oven may not start due to a problem with the door latch. Most of the door latches are made of plastic hooks that stick out of the door and lock the door switch when the door is closed, signaling the rest of the controls to turn on the microwave. If the hooks are damaged or do not have tension due to worn springs, the switch will not click, which means that the microwave oven does not turn on. To gain access to the door latch, first unplug the microwave oven from the power source and remove the inner door panel that is held in place with plastic plugs. Inspect the door latch and replace it if it is damaged.

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Every one of your home appliances is vital to your every day life, but in the laundry room, nothing’s worse than a malfunctioning washing machine. As you know, every brand is different, not only on the outside, but on the inside as well. Luckily, we’ve been in the business for over 5 years, and not only do we know washing machines inside and out, but we understand how important your washer is to your family, and that’s why we’re proud to be known for the fast, friendly, dependable service that we’ve always provided. No matter the brand, we’ll be able to diagnose your unit, and give you the final quote for repair before we even begin, because we charge by the job, not by the hour. If your washing machine has decided to quit, and you need it repaired as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Washer won’t spin

– The washer is overloaded with a lot of things.
– Torn drive belt.
– The drum is jammed with a foreign object.
– The heater is faulty.
– Wear of bearings.
– The motor is faulty.
– Defective electronic module.

Washer is making loud noise

– The bolts intended for transporting the machine have not been removed from the tank attachments.
– The bearings of the drum drives are damaged.
– Stuck objects in the space between the walls of the tank and the drum.
– The pulley, the drive system of the drum, is loose.
– The tank’s counterweights are poorly fixed.
– The rubber seal of the hatch cover is not fitted to fit.
– The washing machine is not installed correctly.

Washer won’t agitate

– If the washer does not agitate, the mixer will need to be replaced.
– The drive unit is worn out.
– Motor coupling is broken or damaged.
– The drive belt is worn out.
– The motor control board is defective.
– Lower or upper Agitator damaged.

Washer won’t drain

– The connecting pipe (between the tank and the pump) is clogged with debris.
– There was an extraneous thing in the pump.
– The filter of the pump (pump) is clogged with debris.
– The pump broke.
– Clogged sewer or siphon.
– Hose clogged through which water is drained.

Washer vibrating or shaking

– It is not correct to install the washer on the supports, its unstable position.
– Imbalance of laundry in the drum washer.
– Small objects stuck between the tank and the drum, for example, coins, pins, buttons or metal bones from the bra.
– Failure of springs and shock absorbers.
– Broken bearings.
– Weakened fastening or destruction of the counterweight.
– Motor failure.

Washer fills slowly

– Malfunction of the water supply valve.
– Siphon valve malfunction or missing.
– Blockage of the drainage system.

Washer leaking water

– The pump (drain pump) may leak.
– Probably, the tightness of the tank is broken (a crack or breakdown appeared).
– The integrity of the hoses is broken (both the drain hose and the filling hose may be damaged).
– The damaged cuff of the door is leaking.
– The junction of the filler pipe is not sealed.
– The nozzles connecting the inlet valve and the dispenser of the washing machine are not sealed.
– Worn the oil seal of the tank.
– The hopper of the machine was clogged.
– The damaged drain outlet of the tank is leaking.

Washer won’t start

– If the washing machine does not turn on at all, how many do not press the on / off button, then either a problem with the power supply, or with the electric machine itself.
– If the washing machine turns on, but you can not set any program or function, then the problem is in the electronics.
– If the washing machine erases, but at the same time produces very strong extraneous sounds: knocking, metal grinding, ringing, a problem in the mobile mechanism of the drum.
– If the washing machine erases, but does not drain the water, hanging at this stage, the problem can be covered in the drain pump.

Washer won’t spin or agitate

– The washing machine door is not fully closed or the door lock is faulty;
– The drain pump system is faulty;
– Brushed motor brushes;
– The electronic module is faulty;
– The water level sensor broke;
– The work of the tan is broken;
– The machine is overloaded with plenty of laundry;
– Tachogenerator is out of order;
– Damaged drive belt
– There was a serious breakdown in the engine.

Washer overflowing

– Probably, in this case, the pressostat tube (hose) (water level sensor) has flown, clogged or damaged.
– The chamber of the pressostat clogged up with scum and mud.
– The water level sensor itself has failed.
– The electronic controller (control module) is defective. During the bay, the controller does not give the command to stop the water set, and it continues to enter the washer.
– The filling valve is out of order. He jammed in the open position, so the water enters the washer constantly, and she can not finish the program.

Washer door or lid won’t lock

– The hinges on the door have skewed and the tab of the fixing device does not fit into the groove.
– Probably, the lockout device of the hatch has failed.
– Garbage has got into the lockout device.
– The control module is defective.

Washer stops mid cycle

– Put too much laundry in the drum, or put it wrong.
– The wrong washing mode is selected.
– There are problems with the electrician of the washing machine (sensors, wires, terminals).
– There are problems with the electronic control unit of the washing machine.
– The leakage protection system was activated.
– Do not properly lock or unlock the door.
– There is a serious breakdown of the most important machine units: engine, heating element or drain pump.

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Dryer drum not turning

– Start delay timer is on.
– The rollers holding the front part of the drum or the rear bearing failed.
– The machine does not rotate the drum due to the fault of the wedged or burnt out engine.
– The axles on which the rollers are attached worn. The solution is the replacement of the failed components.
– In the event that the electric motor is noisy, but the drum does not rotate, the motor capacitor may have failed.
– The drum drive belt is damaged or stretched.

Dryer makes noise

– The belt of the drying drum is extended and the device produces a specific whistling sound.
– Also, the dryer knocks and hums due to a faulty bearing.
– Small coins have come between the seal and the body.
– Drying costs with a skew, because of what the drying drum touches the wall of the case or other elements, spreading an unpleasant knock.
– There are too many things and the balancing of the drying drum has been disturbed.
– The rollers of the drying drum were worn out.
– The Dryer has not been used for a long time, therefore the rollers of the drum have lost their former shape.

Dryer not heating

– In the drum put a lot of clothing or it is not properly sorted.
– The filter was clogged.
– The air line is dirty or twisted, so that the heated air is not supplied to the drum.
– The machine does not heat up due to a faulty thermostat or thermistor.
– The equipment does not heat because of the incorrectly set operating mode.
– Faulty heater.
– The control module is defective.
– The timer has failed.

Dryer overheating

– The heating element is defective.
– The problem of air flow.
– The thermostat is faulty.
– The sealant is damaged around the dryer.

Dryer stopped spinning

– The electric motor jammed or burnt.
– If the electric motor works, but the drum does not rotate, the motor capacitor most likely has failed.
– The program startup timer has been set.
– Rollers that support the front of the drying drum, or the rear bearing, have failed.
– The axles to which the rollers are attached worn.
– The belt of the drying drum is damaged or stretched.

Dryer takes too long

– The ventilation grille of the dryer clogged up with dirt.
– If the hose comes off the exhaust hood or separates almost anywhere, it can be and usually is a sign of excessive back pressure. The result of airflow restriction.
– Make sure that the fan casing and internal ventilation of the machine also do not contain excess liquid.
– The gas valve solenoid is faulty.
– The heating element is defective.
– The lint filter might be clogged.
– The humidity sensor is defective.
– The thermostat with a high limit is faulty.
– The thermistor is faulty.

Dryer tripping breaker

– There was an oxidation of contacts on the control board GORENIE, which leads to a short circuit.
– Simultaneously with the dryer, there are energy-consuming consumers of electricity – a boiler, an electric stove, a stiralka.
– The machine is knocked out due to a failed outlet or a malfunctioning power plug of the device.
– It cuts down the machine due to a short circuit in the heating element. The solution is a change of the heating device, the heater.
– We use too weak automata, which are not designed for this current.
– Shortage of the windings of the electric motor.

Dryer won’t start

– Drying is not connected to the mains, the socket or plug is broken.
– Oxidized contacts in the electrical circuit.
– The fuse has blown. Exit – installing a new one.
– Faulty thermistor.
– The device does not start to dry due to the lack of mains voltage.
– Start delay is on.
– The condensate collection tank is full.
– Faulty door lock hatch. The output is a change in the broken mechanism.
– The motor of the device is blown. The solution is the restoration of the working capacity of the faulty mechanism.
– The temperature regulator is faulty.
– The dryer does not start because of a broken power switch.

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If your range or cooktop runs on gas, you’ll also want to make sure that the gas valve hasn’t become closed.
Stove tops and ranges have many other fairly complex components, including spark igniters, bake igniters, broil igniters, spark switches, thermostats, selector switches, and gas solenoid valves. Troubleshooting and repairing these parts is best left to the skilled, experienced technicians at Appliance1.US

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You want your appliances to last a long time—and we are here to help. Our appliance experts can help you keep your appliances running smoothly. These tips can help save you time, extend the life of your appliances, and help them run more efficiently. Throughout the life of your appliances, you will probably troubleshoot an issue at some point or another. Read our disclaimer for complete details about the information we present in this section of the site. Remember we are only a phone call away!
Remember: Safety First

  • Always unplug the appliance first
  • Watch out for sharp edges—especially on dryers
  • Never wear jewelry of any type while working on equipment
  • Tie back long hair
  • Ensure that your work area has ample lighting
  • Wear steel-toed safety shoes
  • Lift appliances using your legs and not your back

Specialty Tools You Can Use

  • Hose Pinch-Off Pliers
  • Hose Clamp Pliers
  • Snap Ring Pliers
  • Spanner Wrench
  • Nut Driver Set
  • Wire Stripper
  • Clamp-On Ammeter
  • Volt-Ohm-Amp Meter
  • Non-Contact Voltage Tester
  • Test Leads & Jumper Wires
  • Wrench Set
  •  
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Major appliances use about 13 percent of the electricity load in a home. Finding practical and actionable ways to reduce that pull does more than lower your utility bills each month, however. Electricity is a key player in the escalating environmental problems. You can save money and do your part for the environment by giving your home an energy evaluation. Appliances are a good place to start.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the one appliance that uses by far the most energy after heating and cooling equipment is the hot water heater. This means the appliances that rely on hot water, such as the dishwasher, are costing you even more. The best move you can make when upgrading your water heater is to switch to an energy efficient or tankless model. From there, the next major appliance putting a dent in the electricity is the clothes dryer with the refrigerator coming in at a close second.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, this is how the numbers break down for the average home. These figures assume your home has newer appliances, however. The numbers would shift dramatically if the refrigerator or freestanding freezer were 15 years old, for example. down for the average home. These figures assume your home has newer appliances, however.

  • Water heater – 2400 kWh for a family of two
  • Clothes dryer – 1000 kWh
  • Refrigerator – 600 kWh
  • Dishwasher – 300 kWh
  • Clothes washer – 200 kWh

 

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Help Your Appliance Age Gracefully

Do you know how long your refrigerator will last? For how many years should you expect your washer to function? To effectively manage your household budget, it helps to know the average life of appliances. This appliance life expectancy chart will help you determine if an appliance can be saved or if its time might be up.

Of course, the best way to help your appliance age well and have a long, healthy life is to perform regular maintenance and have it checked periodically by an appliance repair expert.

«How Old Is My Appliance?»

If you’re not sure how old your appliance is, you can find this information by analyzing the tag or sticker that shows the serial number. These tags are often located inside the door of an appliance, on the back, or under an easily removed panel (e.g., under a stove top). The serial number tag on most modern appliances lists the manufacture date clearly. If you can’t find the date, you’ll need to decode the serial number to find out the appliance’s age. Search for this «appliance date code» based on the brand of your appliance, or simply determine the appliance age by typing the brand and serial number itself in an online search. Often, the first few numeric characters simply line up with a month and year.

Regular maintenance can help extend your appliance’s working age to the maximum. If it breaks, sometimes it’s more economical to replace an old appliance than it is to repair it. How can you tell? Our appliance repair technicians are happy to advise if you’re unsure about your appliance’s condition.

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Vip-Masters.com will restore a problem with your appliances.
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